Good Evening Everyone, I was one of the lucky early local backers that picked up their Longmill this week. This will be a long one.
Everything is well packaged and easily identified. The tools in the top right of the photo were my initial expectation of what would be needed based on the first page of the assembly instructions.
I have almost completed assembling the Y-Axis rails when I encountered my first big problem. This one was very likely my fault as I knocked the left Y-Axis rail onto the floor and cracked the left rear foot. I patched it up with some epoxy as I was just a crack along layer lines. I was then not able to slide the leadscrew through the 608ZZ bearing into the coupler for the Nema 23 motor. After checking a number of different things I found the coupler on the Nema 23 motor shaft wasn’t 100% lined up with the 608ZZ bearing. This caused me to be unable insert the leadscrew into the coupler. After trying a few times to slowly tighten the screws and hold the coupler and bearing aligned I was successful just as I was confirming a few things for this post. So I look forward to completing this assembly in the next few days.
I took a few notes on the assembly process up to this point as well as which tools I used I figured I would share with the community.
- Allen Keys - 4mm and 6mm - the other two sizes needed are provided at the right time. The ones with a 90 degree bend work best, not the iFixit kit in the photo. Just too many bolts that need to be tight and the extra leverage is very helpful.
- Wrench 8mm - for M4 Nyloc Nuts and Eccentric Nuts
- Rubber Mallet - only once
- Chanel Lock Pliers
- Elbow Grease it’s bigger than expected
Assembly Notes XZ-Axis
- Leadscrew locknut threads are rough and difficult to thread down the leadscrew. Not too big of a deal as that part of the leadscrew is unused if damaged by the Locknut.
- Paint on some holes is very tight to the bolt and can make sliding the Z Motor in as well as to tighten the GT2 belt.
- One captured M4 nut for attaching the Z-Axis Motor plate to the printed mount stripped the 3d printed pocket due to initial cross threading. This was fixed with some Crazy Glue around the nut and it was held in place the second time. I know this is minor, but can be frustrating to newer users. One solution that would make this ‘easier’ would be heated inserts, I have seen them used for building the Opensource Railcore 3D printer and it is more effort than the captured nut but extremely unlikely to have this occur.
- 608ZZ Flangged bearing can be difficult to seat, used Chanel Lock Pliers as a makeshift press to apply even pressure to seat when needed on all Axis.
- V-Wheels have a ring in the centre of the bearing cylinder that was in the way for the bolt for 50% of the wheels. Again, not a big issue as I just used a small Allen wrench to move them sideways back into the bearing, but a heads up for newer users.
- 8mm washer for X-Axis leadscrew is best held in place by tweezers when sliding the leadscrew through the 608ZZ bearing into the coupler on the nema 23 motor (this also works for the Y Axis)
Assembly Notes Y-Axis
- Y-Axis plate powdercoat made attaching it to one end of the X-Axis rail on one side fairly difficult. Used a Rubber Mallet which basically just used the aluminum rail to scrape off the paint. After this it wasn’t too difficult to get it on and the other plate was not as difficult to press on.
- Y-Axis rail attachment could use a bit more information in pictures as well as some instructions. This was the part that I was working on when the left rail fell onto the floor. I was trying to figure out what the pictures and words were suggesting for the assembly method. The solution I used was to lean the XZ-Axis onto the Router Mount and slide the Y-Axis rails in from the back. It was still difficult to manage single handed but nothing else fell on the floor.
- Attaching Y-Axis feet can make threading the leadscrew easier as the Y-Axis is a bit more level, but either do not seat the 608ZZ bearing on the front feet or attach the front foot after the leadscrew. This can make threading the leadscrew a bit more difficult and likely why the instructions say to attach it after the leadscrew.
One last assembly note is on the captured nuts. It was best for me to thread through a bolt from the other side and then pull the nut into the hole. This worked for placing all the nuts in their place, even the one that stripped the hole.
Machine is very rigid at this point, even though its not attached to the wasteboard.