A FEW SUGGESTIONS FROM THE FIELD:
ASSEMBLY:
The holes on the feet should be elongated (Y axis) to allow you to slide each side back and forth when squaring up the machine. The way it is now means that if you don’t get the screws in perfectly at ninety degrees, the sides could be skewed in one direction or another and cause the machine to be out of square. At least add one slot to lock it in place while you put the other screws in.
You should include a notch on the inside of each foot that could be used as a reference point when squaring the machine manually. Alternatively, add angled notches to the bottom of each foot and provide thin alignment cables that can be attached from corner to corner and are marked in the middle to allow you to align the machine more easily.
Although the online directions are good, it’s really annoying when you complete a section only to find out that if you are assembling the 30 x 48, that the procedure is different and that you need to go to a different section. This should be moved to the top of those sections so you don’t complete an assembly only to find out that you have to undo it and do it differently.
The Auto Zero Touch plate is pretty, but way too slick. Put some texture (or Indents) on it so it’s easier to hold. I’m currently using painters tape.
Add a fourth inductive Sensor so that the machine can align the left and right stepper motors when they get out of alignment. It happens.
Figure out which cable(s) is/are subject to EMI. This seems to be a consistent problem if the posts on the forums are any indication. I bought the VERY shielded spindle cables and USB cables and still had issues until I remove the spindle cable from the drag chain. Those random disconnects are not fun in the middle of a job. Since one or more of the cables in the drag chain is obviously causing this disconnect issue, you should as default provide cables with better shielding, or at least provide an alternate cable kit to address this issue. I am sure people would pay a few more dollars to not have this issue and to not have to figure out how to route the cables outside of the drag chain to eliminate this issue.
Determining the correct tension for the ANTI-Backlash nuts with the split washers is a pain in the ass. Add metal sleeves to the nut so that is can not move once it is tightened down. Yes I realize that this would assume that all other tolerances are tightened correctly and that the lead screw is straight, but is would take a lot of the guesswork out of adjusting them and trying to figure out what the hell that squealing noise is. I would even rather use a torque wrench and have metal sleeves to reach a definitive tension.
Just a few things that gave me headaches while assembling and learning.