Hold Down Tip - Contact Cement instead of Super Glue

@Davek Well done, David. Re: hitting screws. Been there, done that more than once. (I’m a slow learner.)

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Hot Glue all the way no screws to damage the bits and you can use it to level the product if need be a little.

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I use hot glue but not under the piece, I use it beside the piece. I use hot glue working on my lathe as well to hold a tenon to the bottom of a bowl for instance. I build the table for my longmill with the Y-rails 3/4" higher than the work surface with t-tracks. The work piece is hot glued on the edge to a piece of 3/4" MDF. A 2" strip of glue every few inches is all I need. Then I use holddown clamps in the t-track to clamp the MDF inplace. This makes it easy to position/reposition.

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Sorry, yes, I know this is a glue post, but frankly, I like the double-sided tape a lot more than glue-based hold down. I’ve tried carpet tape from Ace Hardware with great results, albeit way too expensive. It is easier to find reasonably priced woodworker’s tape from other sources, and I’ve also used it with success. I find it reduces the number of things to keep around, is time saving, etc.

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I mostly use hot glue for work holding, especially when surfacing. The key to easy removal of hot glue is denatured alcohol. Wet the area around the glue. This breaks the surface tension of the glue and makes it super easy to remove.

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Unfortunately, the double sided tape I have been using for years has recently changed. It used to be a fiber mesh with a really skookum adhesive, it is now a thin clear film with a not so skookum adhesive. I know there are other brands available but none local.

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Recently I used XFasten Double Sided Sticky Tape, Removable, 4-Inches x 20-Yards.

It is lighter weight than the XFasten Double Sided Woodworking Tape.

The latter is too thick. Both have aggressive stickem.

I was cutting out Xmas trees from 3mm Birch plywood
using a 1/16" downcut endmill.

The former worked great. It kept the little pieces from popping out, and I was able to cut below the bottom surface of the Birch.

I still prefer thick CA glue and activator for
solid hardwood.