Stand design for permanent vertical cutting

Hi all!

Just published a new video that you could call it a sequel to the Vertical Cutting video I put out over a year ago, only this time I’ve got an actual design for a vertical stand :+1:

Very happy with how it turned out. If you want to give it a shot, just make sure to be safe and keep in mind that running your LongMill vertically will certainly cause the machine to wear out faster. Still, this doesn’t mean that it’s not really cool :wink:

The design for the stand and the drawings to make it can all be found in the LongMill Onshape: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/93f1492b1e7aa915206aafba/w/15288ce8ddb3cb13e39bef33/e/cd14ab65cf5c9b19f676f0da

I also go over how to set up a relief cut on CAMLab and how I perform a tool change between toolpaths if that’s something else you’ve been wanting to learn more about

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Nice video. I didn’t quite grasp how you set your origin to the bottom of the stock with out actually moving the bit there? (I don’t have a touch plate, so maybe there’s something I don’t understand that is intrinsic to how those are used).

Edit: I read up on touch probes, and I think I understand how it works now: ugs sets the zero point to the bottom of the touch plate.

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You’ve got it @frankchannel

Very handy for locating the bit off various surfaces or geometries

Hey Chris! I am looking to make this design! I got all the supplies but I am not 100% confident on how these pieces from the CAD are supposed to go? Some of these pieces are angled could I get some measurements and close ups to better work this out? Or are instructions a possibility? Thanks for the excellent design! -John

Hi there John! There’s a drawing that I put together of all the pieces needed to make this stand that you can find here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/93f1492b1e7aa915206aafba/w/15288ce8ddb3cb13e39bef33/e/314f8bff2b226c2bb2dc0739

If you’d like a PDF version, it’s right here: https://sienci.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Vertical-Stand-Parts-Drawing.pdf

I think with the layout of each individual part it should be straight-forward to work out where all the parts go together to make the overall structure. Let me know if I can provide any additional pointers :slight_smile:

Chris, I’ll be building my vertical stand this week, somewhere I saw that counter weights were used. My question is are they needed and if so what should the weight be?
Thanks
Tim

In the video (at 2:30), I can see you viewing the CAD in V3 and are able to view it piece by piece while in the V2 CAD that you shared all the pieces of the main assembly are a single part which makes viewing sub-assemblies difficult. And at 3:15 you mention “getting the correct angles” but where in this can I find the angles i need for the diagonal supports? Lastly, (this is just more about of my inexperience in woodworking) how many wood screws for each connection are enough?

Ah yeah, this is the post here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/mill.one/permalink/960846101053388/

Mark used 20lbs of weight - a 10lb weight on each side - in his counter weight system. The whole gantry assembly comes out to being about 26ish lbs so that’s a reasonable amount.

I’ve spoken with Ivan, another one of our LongMill users, and he’s had his machine set up vertically without a counter weight system for over 6 months successfully so it shows that it’s possible to set the machine up without weight or spring-assist. In my opinion: the pros of assisting the setup is that it avoids the possibility of the machine losing position on power-off and it reduces the additional wear the LM might normally see when mounted vertically. One thing I’m not certain of is if the machine is making fast movements in the Y-directions if the weights may end up bouncing up and down a whole lot

You can see more on our thoughts on a vertical setup here: https://sienci.com/2019/04/05/can-the-longmill-work-vertically/

Gotcha John, I’ll try to see if I can split the assembly up so that it’s easier to visualize how it goes together. In the video, I was just rolling back the feature tree which is why you see the parts slowly coming together.

When I mentioned “getting the correct angles” I was mostly concerned with getting things square. Since the stand has four legs, if any of the connections were out-of-square then it’s possible that the final stand wouldn’t sit flat, rather it would rock. The positioning of the diagonal bracing really isn’t crucial, it’s there to provide support to the overall structure

When it comes to connecting all these pieces together, I mostly used 2 1/2" deck screws and some 1 1/2" screws when attaching MDF Pieces. If the connections are end-to-end then you should try to use 2 screws, and if they’re overlapping (side-over-side) connections such as for the diagonal braces, then 3 screws is best. I always recommend pre-drilling the place you’d like to attach a screw with an appropriately sized drill bit (I usually use a 7/64" bit for deck screws) so that you don’t run the risk of the wood splitting on you

Cheers :+1:

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So I have built the vertical stand and long mill but it seems when i make attempts to jog the machine upwards the motor doesnt having the holding power unlike when running a gcode operation? Im just using UGS. What did you do?

Hey John, so normally the maximum jogging speed of the machine is 4000mm/min in the Y-axis and I reduced this to 3000mm/min in order to move more reliably when the machine is vertical.

The setting you want to change is: $111 = 3000

If you haven’t changed your EEPROM settings before, you can see how to do it here: https://sienci.com/dmx-longmill/changing-eeprom-settings/

Okay but the problem is while it is not moving, the machine seems to be in a neutral state and gravity makes the motors turn back

You need to use a fix which keeps the motors powered on as long as the machine is powered on: $1=255

If you don’t set $1 to 255 then your machine may be heavy enough to overcome the mechanical advantage of the lead screws and will slowly ‘fall’ downwards, losing whatever position it was originally in - it sounds like this is what’s happening to you John

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Thank you so much Chris this was exactly what I was looking for!

Chris,

You mentioned in the Pikachu video that you went back and added a "block’ to the bottom so your rough cut would clean the entire flat surface and you wouldn’t have to saw off the corners. Did you explain how to add that somewhere else and I missed it?

No, I didn’t explain it anywhere else. The brief of it is that I made a rectangle in meshmixer and clicked to ‘union’ between the pikachu and the rectangle in order to make a singular model with a flat area the size of the block of wood. One of the future features of CAMLab is going to be an option to clear out the whole stock area so that the 3D model work isn’t going to be necessary anymore, but that’s the fix I’ve been using for now

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