I was searching for something else on my hard drive when I found this cheat sheet that I had saved. I thought it might be useful so Iām posting it here. It explains what all the numbers do as far as start depth and flat depth for both parts.
Edit: A recent , thanks @Scottp, reminded me that I wanted to put the other V-Carve Inlay PDF that I learned from here so they can be found in one spot. Basically, all that I know about V-Carve inlays came from these two PDFs. VCarve_Inlay_Description_and_Procedure.pdf (1.1 MB)
I would say itās for demonstration, just to make the numbers easy. Iām usually starting with ~3/4" before planing or surfacing so no 1" v-carving for me
Michael, thanks for sharing this with us. Iāve been wanting to try my hand at inlaying and think this should give me the encouragement Iāve been needing!
Iām not sure. V-Carve, which is what I use, doesnāt have Bevel Carving which I assume you are using based on ābevel settingā. Both parts can be made with a v-carve.
Lets say I wanted to inlay a simple circle shape. The circle would be selected for the female part and that would v-carve the area inside the circle. For the male part another vector, say a square, would be placed around the circle. Then the square and the circle would be selected and the v-carve would be between the circle and the square leaving the circle proud.
Iāve done it both ways, with and without depending on the size of the flat area. None of the flat areaās end up showing. One gets cut away and the other is the bottom of the glue area so I think itās mainly just to speed things up if you have large flats.
EDIT: I misread read your question. Read it as whether to use clearance at all. I do the clearance first to answer your question. I do it that way thinking the less material left for the v-carve the better.
, thanks @Scottp, reminded me that I wanted to put the other V-Carve Inlay PDF that I learned from here so they can be found in one spot. Basically, all that I know about V-Carve inlays came from these two PDFs.