Hey! I was replying to a picture posted earlier in this thread. Here it is:
If you have gcode to cut something similar to this using the microjig matchfit dovetail bit, Iād love to try it!
1 Like
@liamflanagan Now I see what you are referring to. 
I had forgotten about that discussion. I didnāt go that route with the dovetail system because if you cut the dovetails into the MDF spoil board itself, you will not be able to surface the spoil board. Doing so will change the depth of the dovetail and the plastic parts in the system will be proud of the surface. Also, I was concerned about the ability of MDF to take the stress of pulling up with what is essentially a wedge.
Instead, I made ārunnersā from hard maple that were similar in purpose to t-tracks. I have a router table so it was simple to route a dovetail the length of the runners. I made them 1/2" thick and 1" wide, and placed them between slats of MDF. That way, I could surface the MDF many times before it was at the height of the maple.
After trying it for a while, I found that I really did not like it and replaced that system with aluminum t-tracks.
All this said, if you want to try routing a dovetail into the MDF spoil board with the Mill, I can easily generate some gcode for you. I just need to know the following:
how far apart do you want the dovetails
do you want them in both X and Y axis
what are the dimensions of your spoil board since the bit cannot plunge
where you want X0YO to be
where you zero the Z axis
1 Like
@gwilki Hey! I like your system. The way you were doing it makes a lot of sense, and the inability to surface the material many times with the dovetail system is definately annoying. That said, Iāve already got this system in place so it looks like Iāll stick to it for a while before eventually also biting the bullet and going with t-track.
Thank you so much for offering to generate gcode for this! Here are my specs:
- 4 inch spacing between each dovetail track
- Tracks running along both the x and y axis.
- Spoilboard dimension: 28in x 28in (should leave enough room for the bit to navigate around the edges)
- X0Y0 in bottom left corner
- Z axis zero 0.38 inches below the spoilboard surface.
This should leave 7 dovetail tracks going in both the X and Y axis, with one centered in the middle.
With that said, Iād love to know how youāre making this gcode incase I make a modification to my setup in the future and need to do it myself. Are you using a tool/cam software or just writing it in a .txt file yourself? I couldenāt quite figure out how to do it in cam lab (which is the extent of my knowlage right now, lol).
1 Like
Getting to old to get in and out easily! The way I do it is back up to the open door and fall in, getting out is begging my wife to pullā¦ Thatās why itās under a cover, hasnāt been driven in over a year, actuall like my Prius the best.
2 Likes
She does the trick built the bench an machine last weekend total about 15 hrs and was working with out a hitch
4 Likes
love that bench dog idea with the dowels!
1 Like
I did the same for XY alignment and it works great. Holes are cut for 1/4" dowels. I used the router to align and bore them so itās aligned to the machine. I have a 3/4" MDF spoil board. Bored holes 1/2" deep and cut the dowels to 1". Nice if you make a mistake so it wonāt damage your bits.
3 Likes
I should be getting my machine here in Houston, Texas within a week or two and I am now nervous because not only is this a new adventure for me but I havenāt even started considering how Iām going to set it up in my shop. Thanks for all the pictures and ideas
1 Like
Hi there @ Swinly, There is no better time in life to learn this stuff, I am 73, get so excited at night I canāt sleep thinking about all the projects going on, thank God my wife is much younger to keep me on track! Enjoy every single day, doesnāt get much better that this!
2 Likes
Hi @Heyward43 , funny, just did damage a bit for the first time, so itās set zero, not return to zero for a new path, lol, also my HDPE system got a little rounded off with some circle stuff I was cutting, at least that doesnāt hurt the bits! I am getting faster at hitting that big red button!
1 Like
LOL, @Bill. Itās amazing how fast you learn to move when things happen. Iām 78 and still have pretty good reflexes. Unfortunately itās the mistakes that give you the practice. My unit is one of the original kicktarter ones so I donāt have the Big Red Button. I have gotten pretty good at finding that little black button real fast though. Just remember that you will still make mistakes even with more experience. Even though itās aggravating itās still enjoyable seeing finished products.
4 Likes
Ordered my Long Mill on Friday, spent 4 hours Saturday building a table for it from scraps. Not bad for a scrap table, but also nothing special. Got a monitor and mount off local classifieds but not sure if I want to use it or just use a laptop. Made it 4āx5ā, figured the extra foot would be nice for tools and computers.
Now I wait, going to be a long 4 to 6 weeks. Remember when I ordered my Mill One it was delivered in a week, how the times have changed.
3 Likes
@Slant6 Welcome to the gang, John. The table looks good. I had a dodge pickup in the mid-60ās with a slant 6, 3 on the tree.
I just finished a quick design in Sketchup for a table. 48" x 60" x 37" . Well the table is a little shorter but with 3.5" casters it will be 37". I Still have not settled on the height. Iām going to make it out of .750" birch and .750" MDF for the top, shelf, and wasteboard. I May still tweak it some.
Anyone have any ideas to make it better or do you see anything that might not work out? Iām always uncertain about designing something for function. Any constructive criticism is welcomed, just be gentleā¦lol*** If I already had a table for the Longmill I would use it to do some carving around the table frame and legs. Iām tempted to build a temporary table just to do that.
***If I can figure how to convert a Sketchup file Iāll post it.
I did upload it to media fire and Iāll post a link to that if it is okay? I would really like otherās input on it before I start building next week.
1 Like
Follow up on my post above.
Okay, I figured out how to convert the .skp to somethingā¦ Right now Iām planning on having a single .750" MDF for the top with an MDF wasteboard on top of it. Any advice for the whole thing before I start building next week?
2 Likes
@Swinly my only suggestion would be under the .750 MDF top would be some type of torsion box design for added rigidity. On my build I mounted the rails on top of 4" wide 3/4 mdf to not reduce my z axis 3/4", donāt know if I will ever need it but one never knows.
2 Likes