Help - controller power flashes but then goes off

Gah, almost done my epic cut and I had a few small problems. However they don’t compare to what just happened.

I powered off the Longboard and powered it back on. Driver lights come on red for a second and went off. Didn’t notice at first. When to jog the machine and UGS told me it was moving but I looked over and it appeared to be off. Toggled the power, saw red, tried UGS again. Looked back over, Longboard is dark.


I get a momentary flicker when I rock the power switch but no sustained power. I appear to be dead in the water. Is this the failing power switch issue? Help!


24V coming out of the power brick, as confirmed with a multimeter.

Rocking the switch gives a second of red lights then they fade. Argh!

Mine is the one with the clear sides, which I guess is the original one? Can you send me a replacement?



:pensive: seems your power switch failed. Agh this issue is by far our most annoying one since everything works perfectly except these darned switches which are deciding to fail almost at random.

If you’ve got a soldering iron then you can bridge the two power switch terminals on the underside of the board for the time being, we’ll get a new one sent out to you right away

Doh, I was afraid of that. Soldering may be beyond me at this point. How involved is it to take apart the case to get to the power pins? I hate to be down while I wait for the new board.

Might be a good idea to consider a service kit to go out to those who have the swiches. I’m guessing you’ve changed to a new one?

Yeah we’ve got a new design entirely that we’re working on for the next batch right now which should eliminate any problems and allow for easy fix if the switch does still fail.

Since the failed switches aren’t the easiest to get at and we can’t assume the skill level of the customer, we go straight for sending them a new box with a return label so their current box can come back to us. This helps with diagnosing control box issues.

If you can unscrew the bottom 4 bolts (2 on each side) then you should be able to un-tab the base piece and have full access to the switch fins which stick through to the bottom of the board. Soldering those two together is a permanent fix to the problem, where now you power the box on and off by just plugging and unplugging it (or if you’ve got the power brick hooked up to a switched outlet, then just switch off that outlet)

I’m fairly green with electronics, I think just replacing it and sending it back is the right idea. Doh.

So just send the Longboard itself back in the box the new one comes in, right?

At least Mrs. Jeff will be happy that I won’t be engrossed in the shop all weekend.


If you are still in the process of redesign, I would appreciate if one of the doubled homing connectors would be rerouted to the pins of “pause”, “stop”, and “resume”. I already attached wires to the pins of the Arduino shield, but it wasnt that easy… so just an offtopic suggestion if you mind.

Since time stamps aren’t obvious, and clearly not to be assumed all the time, but @chrismakesstuff responded to me at 1AM his local time (10PM here on the wet coast). And this morning I had a tracking number and a return shipment label in my e-mail from Ikenna. These guys take care of their customers if something goes wrong. Respect.


New Longboard arrived on Friday and works fine. I appreciate the replacement. Old one headed back to Sienci.

UGS didn’t work at first, then I realized the COM port incremented from COM3 to COM4 due to the new Arduino device being detected. Everything seems to be working fine now and it was nice to be able to bolt it down to the wasteboard.


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I had a similar thought this weekend. It would be nice if the Play/Pause/Stop was duplicated on an edge connector so we can wire our own buttons. I guess people are wiring e-stop to power instead?