I’m suffering from a bit of analysis paralysis, and would look some advice.
The rendering below is a skeleton of my table. Instead of the MDF top, I used 18mm baltic birch instead. On top of which I plan to use 19mm MDF for my spoil board and will also use the same stock to raise the height of the Longmill so that I don’t loose any z-axis height.
Ideally, I would love to be able to cut out the opening on the right (which will be for vertical work holding/milling) with the Longmill itself after it’s all setup, not sure that’s possible, given that I’m raising the height of the Longmill an additional 19mm. I suppose I could get a long bit?
The alternative would be to cut out the opening prior with my Shaper Origin, and while I could ensure that it square to the table top itself, having the Longmill cut it would mean the opening is sqaure to the CNC which is more important to me.
@mwarning I did the same sort of thing, but the opening is in the front of my table. I can’t get at the right side since it is up against a cabinet.
Here is a good thread on how others have done their setup.
In my case, my spoilboard does not extend over the opening. I have slats as my spoilboard and I cut two of the short. I would strongly recommend using the LM to cut the opening. That is the simplest and best way ensure that it is parallel to the travel of your machine. With the router as low as it will go in the clamp, you should be able to cut through.
So you think I’ll be able to go through the 18mm thick plywood top even if the Longmill is raised up on 19mm MDF to match what I’ll be using for my spoil board? Even if I have to use a longer bit? I’d really like to cut it with the Longmill itself for the reason you mentioned, just want to make sure its possible.
Oh, and if it makes any difference, I’ll be using the Longmill spindle, not the Makita.
@mwarning I have no experience at all with the spindle, but there should enough Z travel to do this. It’s easy enough test it in air. Put the bit that you want to use in the spindle and lower it until the bit just touches your spoilboard. Set Z0 there. raise up the spindle, remove the bit, and return to Z0. Now lower in Z as far as you can and read off how much lower it is. If it’s more than the thickness of the material you are cutting through, you are golden.
I went the long bit route. My table top is 3/4" MDF laminated to a sheet of 3/4" plywood so it was a challenge to cut 1 1/2" below my table but possible. The advantage to doing it this way is it to be aligned, assuming you’re square and trammed. I put it in my back right table corner as it so as not to be in the way as much. The second pic is the contraption I built to hold work under the table. It works but probably overkill
