Perfect! Thanks for the precise information! 
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Perfect!
Thanks Chris
I should mention that the BOM is now available here: https://sienci.com/dmx-longmill/open-source-and-modifications/
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thanks for that BOM.
It took 17 WEEKS for my V-BOTTOM wheels to finally arrive from AliExpress 
Good thing I was busy making other parts in the meantime.
So ya, you have to be prepared to run into those kinds of troubles when scratch building.
BTW, not at all disappointed with the quality of the v-wheels… They look really good.
Tip: Before inserting lead screws, run a bearing free handed, over the length and remove any slight hang ups with an oil stone.
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Thinking about clamping each Y axis against an angle plate, and skimming off the feet, in order to true them to each other.
Any thoughts?
The little step faces the bearing, so it only contacts the inner race
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Hansi, nice work! I especially like the ACME screw collar.
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Thanks CRD.
Ya, didn’t want to bugger up the thread since I’ll be taking everything apart once it’s all proven. I want to send my steel parts out for E-coat later. Right now they are just rust proofed, until I’m happy with everything. Free E-coat service through family member 
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Hansi: I really like your locking ring. Does it screw onto the acme rod, or just slip over it? If the latter, it would work like the slip on coupler at the motor end, correct?
Also, if it just slips on, how do you get it to tension the rod? In another thread, it is advised to tension the Y axis rods to keep them from whipping. That is why I am asking.
thank you
Hi Gwilki:
Thanks for your comment. The locking ring is a split ring, like the shaft couplings and will not mar the lead screw.
I currently have the lead screws tensioned by pulling on them by hand as I tighten the locking ring… But you do have a very good point.
I don’t feel any longitudinal play right now, but if I need to apply more tension once in running, I think I’ll tap an M4 into the end of the ACME screw and use a proper washer under the screw head, as it would pull against the locking ring from the back.
Sorry, don’t have any drawing, but I hope you can figure out what I am referring to.
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That makes perfect sense, Hansi. I was thinking that, if the locking ring was a bit shorter, you could use a nut on the end of the rod to tension it, tighten the locking ring, then remove the temporary nut.
Thank you for replying.
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