OpenSource LongMill Scratch Build

Add-ons & Modifications šŸ§° CNC Setup
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I should mention that the BOM is now available here: https://sienci.com/dmx-longmill/open-source-and-modifications/

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thanks for that BOM.

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544160Ɨ3120 1.21 MB

Bit by bit :blush:

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It took 17 WEEKS for my V-BOTTOM wheels to finally arrive from AliExpress :tired_face:
Good thing I was busy making other parts in the meantime.
So ya, you have to be prepared to run into those kinds of troubles when scratch building.
BTW, not at all disappointed with the quality of the v-wheelsā€¦ They look really good.

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IMG_20200306_183204
IMG_20200306_183204816Ɨ900 123 KB

Ecentric nuts I had to makeā€¦ Canā€™t buy this kind with the nice long cylindrical boss, over seas.

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444160Ɨ3120 743 KB

Another test fit

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IMG_20200307_181558
IMG_20200307_1815582368Ɨ4208 2.64 MB

Tip: Before inserting lead screws, run a bearing free handed, over the length and remove any slight hang ups with an oil stone.

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IMG_20200309_180413
IMG_20200309_1804132368Ɨ4208 2.29 MB

Thinking about clamping each Y axis against an angle plate, and skimming off the feet, in order to true them to each other.
Any thoughts?

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firefox
firefox993Ɨ1107 158 KB

I didnā€™t care for this type of locking ring, so I turned some up, using the idea from the couplings

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IMG_20200312_204533
IMG_20200312_2045331333Ɨ1563 315 KB

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The little step faces the bearing, so it only contacts the inner race

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IMG_20200312_204628
IMG_20200312_2046282368Ɨ4208 2.42 MB

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Hansi, nice work! I especially like the ACME screw collar.

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Thanks CRD.
Ya, didnā€™t want to bugger up the thread since Iā€™ll be taking everything apart once itā€™s all proven. I want to send my steel parts out for E-coat later. Right now they are just rust proofed, until Iā€™m happy with everything. Free E-coat service through family member :grin:

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Hansi: I really like your locking ring. Does it screw onto the acme rod, or just slip over it? If the latter, it would work like the slip on coupler at the motor end, correct?

Also, if it just slips on, how do you get it to tension the rod? In another thread, it is advised to tension the Y axis rods to keep them from whipping. That is why I am asking.

thank you

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Hi Gwilki:
Thanks for your comment. The locking ring is a split ring, like the shaft couplings and will not mar the lead screw.
I currently have the lead screws tensioned by pulling on them by hand as I tighten the locking ringā€¦ But you do have a very good point.
I donā€™t feel any longitudinal play right now, but if I need to apply more tension once in running, I think Iā€™ll tap an M4 into the end of the ACME screw and use a proper washer under the screw head, as it would pull against the locking ring from the back.
Sorry, donā€™t have any drawing, but I hope you can figure out what I am referring to.

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IMG_20200320_122946
IMG_20200320_1229462176Ɨ2329 1.87 MB

Insert M4 cap screw with washer for lead screw tensioning, then tighten locking ring.

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That makes perfect sense, Hansi. I was thinking that, if the locking ring was a bit shorter, you could use a nut on the end of the rod to tension it, tighten the locking ring, then remove the temporary nut.

Thank you for replying.

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Yes, that would work too.
My lead screws are only 100cm long where as the originals are 101cm if I remember right. That would have given me the needed length.
A narrower collar would have forced me to use an M3 for lockingā€¦eh, not much thread holding on M3 in aluminum. Brass would be better for going small.

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How does one make one of these?