Most spoil boards I see referenced are of MDF, but I have lots of 2x4s so would like to use those (using the T-track method). After squaring the edges, is there any reason why NOT to use the cut-down 2x4s rather than buying additional products for the spoil board? TIA from a Newbie
@loracjesor Welcome back to the forum. I will try to answer your question.
I attempted to make a top for a workbench out of 2x6’s once. I squared the edges, and in my case glued them up. When I glued and pocket holed them, they were spot on straight. I even alternated the grain. Within 3 weeks (may have been a bit longer), it began to warp. I ended up taking it off and purchasing MDF core plywood in 3/4" and gluing 2 pieces together. No issues with warping. I wipe it off yearly and throw another coat of poly onto it. That was 10+ years ago. No issue, dead flat.
If I were you, I would go ahead and invest in a sheet of MDF in 3/4". it remains flat and is durable. It may save your carvings once you start. The key is an ultra flat surface. Best of luck and I hope to see some of your creations in the future.
Jake
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MDF is likely the best solution. One could go with Aluminum, PVC, or phenolic, all at a higher cost. Aluminum with tapped holes would make fixturing a breeze. Phenolic and PVC are very good choices for vacuum tables. Very stable after machining.