I bought my Longmill a long time ago and have had a lot of frustration with it. After putting it down for a few years I finally want to get back into it. I have a really nice bench made for it which was probably 1/2 my problem from before, and an electrical cabinet for the electronics.
My Longboard slipped and took a small fall, sheering the power connector off to the PCB.
I ordered replacement connectors and soldered them on, and the board won’t receive power. The light does not turn on. The stepper drivers do not receive power, nothing gets power. The light does not even turn on.
I have ensured the polarity of the connector is correct. I just don’t know why it would not be turning on as nothing else was damaged.
After years of owning this, and the replacement Super Longboard being $165 (out of affordability range for me) I am extremely distraught and burned out because of something as silly as this stopping me from using the machine.
Can anyone help me understand how this board works so I can diagnose the problem and potentially replace whatever component is not working? I do not understand the wiring diagrams provided in the resources page at all.
Have you got access to a multi meter?
If so, did you check the output voltage on your power supply? Maybe that end got damaged when the board tried to make a break for it …
Was the equipment powered up when the board fell? I don’t know about the particular controller you have but maybe there is a fuse that blew? Maybe there is a blown fuse in the power supply?
So many possible causes …
The equipment was not powered up. I had made a drawer for the table base I had made for the machine but had not put the back on yet due to wanting to include some power outlets inside the drawer itself - and a passthrough for the laptop USB to the controller. While trying to put the drawer back in the slides it slipped off one slide and made a soft-ish landing as everything slid out from about 6-7" up.
I can’t find anything wrong physically so I am wondering if there’s just something wrong with my power circuit. I also cannot get it to work by plugging the power supply directly into the E-Stop power switch which would previously work - however I do get 24v across the E-Stop power switch.
I can get +24v from the power input to other connections, but its like there’s a connection or component broken that makes it always stay off as if the E-Stop / power switch is toggled, even if its bridged.
I don’t understand how to read the PCB mappings from the open source documents to test where continuity is being broken.
6 to 7 INCHES ??? Soft-ish landing ???Power was off ??? Sounds to me like there is some really really stupid oversight happening somewhere because none of this raises any red flags for damage. Unfortunately, I am out of brilliant (or stupid) ideas as to what it could be … sorry!
I would suggest it’s time to see if Sienci might have a suggestion.
Good luck !
I have an LB and always have been looking for an excu.. moment to open it.. clean it out. You have provided me with that and so I thank you. Since I have it open I might as well take the time to provide you with some KGB data and measurements.
I too can’t figure out how to find the LB schematics in a usefull way and if some siencitist reads this, can you please provide some hints into howto obtain them. The zipfile provided doesn’t seem to contain them or it’s beyond me to find them, Pleas assist- nudge, kick me in the right direction.
However, we don’t need schematics when we have a KGB at our disposal. Now that I have mine free of its cage.. we do. -yayyy-
The next picture I put up is including DC voltage measurements between the GND input and the components between +24V input ending at the power led (insert). You say no powerled, so the problem might be found between 24V input and powerled, so I concentrated on that section specificly. I included the measurements for the LM317T just for lols and to have them, because why not.
I have disconnected everything from the board except power supply (obviously), e-stop button.
I have removed the arduino and I suggest you do the same. The GND to measure comes directly from the power connector. Though most PCBs have their assembly-points included in the GND circuit, the Longboard does not. (At least, not the input GND.)
This is how a stripped down longboard looks like powered up:
If you use you meter at the gnd pin and you get no voltage readings them make sure you have continuity between the gound pin connector and the ground plane. Also it would be a good ideal to check continuity between the positive pin and the first place that spamming eddie have you check for voltage. Im thinking if the fall broke the connector it may have a hairline crack in the board around that area. Just a quick wag as to my thoughts…
