What are your plans for a table?

Right, I get that - I just always assumed that the load rating was for a vertical load with the swivel sitting horizontally.

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I am not expecting my longmill till March, but I have been kicking around an idea for my table. I really like your design and like how you are going to put the Mill on strips to make changing the spoilboard easier. That is exactly what I was thinking of doing, it just seems like a wise thing to do. I was thinking of doing two sheets of 3/4 plywood for the main table, but now I might go with a torsion box.

A torsion box really will provide the flattest surface if done right. If you’re assembling plywood with wood screws, I would recommend using screws that are long enough that all the treads are in the partitions between the top and bottom layers. This allows the screws to pull the pieces together eliminating any gap between the parts. So if the partition pieces are properly cut your torsion box will be as flat as the material allows. Using shorter screws that would result in thread in both the top layer and the partitions and will not close a gap unless they are tightly clamped prior to driving the screws.
If you’re using MDF you should use particle board screws which I believe are fully threaded. That means you must fully clamp the parts before driving the screws or drill pilot holes in the top and bottom that are as large or larger than the major thread diameter. The partitions will also need pilot hole but these will be smaller so the fastener threads engage the MDF. So you can see that this complicates thing a little. Take the time to get good results and your spoil boards will need little if any surfacing.

I have been thinking about using dados to build my torsion box and I think I’m going to pass because it adds another layer of complexity. Getting the dado depth consistent would be critical to a flat surface. It might work OK if you cut dados with router as it would ride along any curvature in the sheet stock giving fairly consistent depth. On the other hand, cutting dados on the table saw could be much more problematic. If you cut with the concave side down it would require considerable downward pressure to get consistent depth. Cutting with the concave side up would require the operator to rock the material to keep the material in contact with the table at the peak of the blade arc.

Of course, you could use any method you want and just flatten the final product or ignore the torsion box and just flatten your spoil board. I’m of the opinion that the more accurate your initial effort the easier your life will be going forward.

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I love this! Your setup looks really similar to my shop - except better organized. :slight_smile: I even have a window in about the same place, the lumber rack above, and a radial saw to the right of where I plan to put the LongMill when it arrives.

The radial already sticks out about 36" from the wall, but my shop is kind of narrow and adding another 12" or so on that for the LongMill is going to make it feel even more crowded. This looks like a great solution to that problem. Folded up it would be no wider than what I already have, and when folded down I can just deal with losing a little floorspace temporarily.

Do you have it on wheels? That would be perfect because then it could be rolled away from the wall to do longer stock too.

Are you planning to publish your plans anywhere?

The table is on wheels. I didn’t make plans.

I can take pictures or measurements of anything you may need

Space limitations have prevented me from acquiring a CNC in the past. My shop is in one half of a two car garage because my boss insists on parking her car on her half. I managed to claim the ‘air rights’ and decided to mount my longmill on a platform that I could hoist out of the way when not in use. I bought a Racor 4’x4’ ceiling lift with a 250 lb capacity on Amazon for around $250 US. It works great. When lowered, I clamp it to the MFT top on my workbench to keep it from swinging around.



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Where did you get the lift? I might make use of one in the future.

Amazon. $250.
https://www.amazon.com/Racor-PHL-1R-HeavyLift-4-Foot-Cable-Lifted/dp/B0009I8AO6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2SSPVSDYLFBRE&keywords=racor+ceiling+storage+lift&qid=1583127365&sprefix=racor%2Clawngarden%2C187&sr=8-4

Here’s my table I will be building an enclosure as soon as the longmill arrives.
![IMG_20200209_221650|666x499](upload://j4lYI8b0Moqivw23V9H24bKZNHW

.jpeg)

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Got my table (almost) finished today. There’s a shelf on the bottom and I’ve milled the boards for it, just haven’t installed them yet.

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And the shelf boards are in. Awaiting a missing bag of parts from Sienci (thank you for the fast response!) before I can proceed on the machine assembly.

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Woah @Iguana, looking clean :ok_hand: I hope your missing parts find you soon, I’d really like to see how the final setup looks with your LongMill sitting on top :slightly_smiling_face:

Tracking says the parts should arrive today. Should have the finished product together very shortly…

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Sysimpgrp:
I see you have these big holes in your waste board, as you do in your work bench.
Is the MDF strong enough to support those kind of clamping tools? Maybe I should ask, how deep are the holes?
Thanks Hansi

the dog holes in the MFT workbench go all the way through. you can either use clamps that hook into the hole and clamp the workpiece down to the surface or you can use in-line clamps that insert into the hole and exert force on the side of the workpiece that rests against a fence or bench dogs.

On the CNC, I couldn’t decide among t-track, t-nuts or dog holes for work holding, so I just used all 3. The mdf is 3/4 inch thick. You can’t use the workbench clamps that clamp downward as the holes don’t go all the way through and the clamps are too tall to clear the x gantry. But I am able to use the holes for positioning my fences that I then hold down using the t-nuts. I have been experimenting with cam clamps that fit into the dog holes and also the festool in-line dog clamps. I have seen the kreg in-line clamps used on you tube but I haven’t tried them yet. There are also designs for cam clamps on you tube. I also have an in-line toggle clamp that fits into the t-track. I have found that while the in-line clamps hold the workpiece firmly against the fence they also lift it slightly and need to be used in conjunction with some hold down clamping.

this is one of the more interesting workholding systems that I have seen:

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Thanks for the great explanation!
Wow that video was a real idea opener for me. I think your combination of side and down force, is still the winner.

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Missing parts came in late today. Got in a bit of construction time before supper…

Hope to get it finished off tomorrow morning.

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Got some action today!

Now to figure out how to make some cool stuff…

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You are on your way. Have fun!