@Headshop LOL, yet another one with more meat on the holes. It’s not obvious when you draw it but it’s a small part and the thin parts are barely 2mm. The side walls on the groove are rather thin too so I can make it wider if you need. The part is 18mm wide. I can increase it to anything that will fit the drag chain and that will increase the wall thickness.
Tube_Holder_Side_Mount_9.5mm_thicker.stl (655.0 KB)
wow. I do like the last one you just made. you’re spitting these designs out faster than I can print them. I tried printing the first one with out any support. It didnt go so well. So I have been messing with my settings trying to get an acceptable print that doesn’t take 2 or 3 hours to print! Will try your side load next.
@Headshop it’s a hi-res STL that I exported. Not sure if the resolution of the model impacts print time. I can reduce the resolution of needed.
no hi res is good! Ill give you some feed back tomorrow. Im just trying to get the best orientation for printing these blocks. I’m desperately trying to NOT USE support as that adds triples the printing time. Running a double print now. on the new design. 
I really appreciate all the work you’re doing.. Sounds like you are having fun with doing it as well!
I would have sworn the one on the left would string at this point where it starts to print the meat for the T -Track. Just a little droop is all. The one on the right is probably the best orientation Ive had. But wont know until the print is finished and I can examine the parts
Print on it’s side with support for the lip that would be up on top. I would use organic support (easier to remove) and set the slicer to ‘support from build plate only’ (again, easier to remove). You should not need support for the short section of flat, unsupported section.
Sliced with PrusaSlicer 2.9.2
i tried printing from the side but with out support. it was as ugly as you would expect. Ill set it up as you suggest here and see how long the estimated print time is
it still wants an almost 4 hour print time for one unit. If I decreased the resolution I can probably get it under 3 hours.
What layer size? Most people print with 0.2mm and if that is your setup, go to 0.3 mm. (or is that what you refer to as ‘resolution’?)
Why are you printing with two filaments? It only takes a little time but time nevertheless.
BTW, my slicer reports 49 minutes and that is with a fairly slow printer (500*500 bed slinger)
Another printer shows 31 minutes. If you have a fast printer you should be able to print the model in 20 or so minutes.
I didn’t notice it before but you are doing 84 (!!!) filament changes. That’s probably an hour right there!
Ok, so I have to add some more info ….. I can only think of one reason you use two filaments. You are using break away filament for the support. There is in fact very little reason to do so and even IF you want to use a special filament for support then be smart about it and only use it for the separation layer instead of the entire support structure. Use the filament that is used for the model in the support structure (which gives you zero filament changes) or use the regular filament for the support structure and break-away filament for the separation layer (this will give you maybe 3 filament changes for this model)
@Headshop Yup. I like to keep my brain challenged. And using Fusion certainly helps. I’ll likely be at the cottage for the rest of the weekend. Without a computer. So if you need any design changes, it will have to wait until Sunday evening or Monday.
Good morning! Enjoy your time at the cottage! Its supposed to be absolutely gorgeous here in the Mid Atlantic this weekend outside of DC. I know I will be relaxing this weekend as well.
Jens is right, I really I don’t know what Im doing when it comes to settings on my printer. Ill get with Jens to get that part dialed in. As far as mods go, I think these are the only changes I would need.
Ill get with Jens to ask more about how to print with support. Jens is right Im wasting too much time with 84 filament changes! But another thought occured to me. the only place i really need support printing this model with the clips facing down and arm in the air is right at the edge of the t track. I wonder if it is possible to design in a string maybe .3 or .4mm in diameter that goes from the top of the foot to the bottom where each t track beginning. I should easily be able to snip this with cutters after its complete. And I will be guaranteed a successful print each and every time. Its on the underside so it will never be seen. and would be far faster than using support. in any case, this doesnt have to be done now unless you have time before you leave. It can wait until the weekend is over! Enjoy you time
yep! I set it to auto and thats what it wants to do. And I am using brake away support. Bambu labs Support W which I am about out of and I will be switching over Bambu Labs support for PLA/PTEG when I start to print the clips for actual use. Right now its just basic PLA. So are you saying I should use what ever im printing with as my support and just use the support break away material where it touches the actual print? Id have to learn how to set that up. not sure at all how to do that. Im going to do another test print using my print media as support and see how hard it is to separate the model from the support
oh and Chuck, I used the last model you linked the “thicker” one
yep.. i was printing at .1mm layer hieght
@Headshop Like this ? Or did you just want the lip of the t-track removed? I moved the t-track end by 8mm.
Tube_Holder_v5.stl (662.3 KB)
Almost! sorry the wife has me doing the semi annual deep vacuuming of the house. We just sent my daughter to college and she usually takes care of floors. But her being a teenager and all she doesn’t do the most thorough of jobs! That’s almost perfect but I need the ears of the t track removed as well. I need to be able to pull the holder to the right to get at the clip and those ears will hit the inside of the drag chain and stop that movement. also if you have time before you head out, can you also do an additional file that has a .5 to .7mm thick piece of string or support going from the left side (or back of) the foot as it is in that photo to the to the start the back of each t track to act as a kind of support. That way I can cut it loose but the t track will be supported instead of trying to print an over hang. I have found that printing these with the tube holders (foot) down on the 3d printer surface and the t tracks/arm pointed straight up in the air gives me the best print except for when it 1st starts to print the t rack it is printing on an unsupported surface so it droops. You can see the corner of the t track print isnt tight. the red line is just showing where id like the .5 to .7mm tube to support each corner of the t track
