What are your plans for a table?

Got the leveling casters out on, they worked out well.

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Just a suggestion about your cut out section, why not hinge it so that you could use the track system you already have. You’d just need to lock it down and you could use the hold downs you have. Nice table design you’ve come up wiith.

Good suggestion. My initial concern is having support under the filler piece in the horizontal position and getting that support out of the way when folded down. I’ll work it out.

Any thoughts on running the T track length wise on a 30 x 48 Longmill MK2? So the tracks would be 48" rather than 30".

I only have a 30x30 but I ran my T tracks from side to side rather than front to back. I did it because I wanted the removable first section to hide my vertical clamping rig. It has worked out well and I have never wished that my tracks went the other way.

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Thanks for this tip btw. Was trying to decide on a table build ahead of my order but really didn’t want to spend 400 on materials to build a work surface. Ended up finding a vintage Mayline Drafting table for $40 that looks like the attached. Its a bit shallow (38") but can modify the top a bit to extend it and then overlay it all with an MDF surface. Huge thanks!

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I ordered a 30x48 MK2 and is scheduled to arrive today. I only have 4- 48" T Tracks and plan to run them length wise. Question what would be a good width between them? Wondering if I should run 1 on each outside edge or close to the edge and evenly space the other 2 or only say 6" apart in front to allow for additional ones later? Is 6" a good amount or should I go narrower or farther apart? Thanks for any feedback back.

I’m in the process of drawing up how I want to use T-tracks, instead of a threaded waste board, and I’m considering having variable spacing - some close together, some farther, to be able to secure narrow or wide pieces. I don’t have it settled yet… so many options, but something like (horrible text art incoming):

| xx | xxxx | xxxx |

or even

| xxxx | xx | xxxx |

might open up some creative clamping possibilities. I know I could just set them all up spaced evenly, but I do like to over-design things :slight_smile:

Keep us updated with your progress, and congratulations on the new machine!

I went with 2 packages of 4 T Tracks at 36" long, my machine is 30x30. With 8 T Tracks one on the front and back outside edge and the others evenly spaced. This resulted in just over 4" between and I cut the strips to 4" wide. I think my machine should be the same depth. 6" apart might be OK but I’m not sure if it works out to an even number for purchasing.

I don’t see a problem with 6" apart depending on the clamps you use. I’m including a pic of the clamp style that I make. They have served me well, I used the moulding toolpath in Vectric Vcarve to make the curved bottom side. The slot allows a good amount of play forward and back. The ‘heel’ of the clamp helps to keep it level. The notch in the front helps to keep the project from moving. I have a couple of different lengths and heights that I use depending on the stock. With 6" spacing they might need to be a bit longer is all.

If you use Vectric I could provide a file to get you started if you like these style of clamps, just let me know.

For size reference the squares on my spoil board are 50mm.

Yes I do use Vetric. I would appreciate the files. Thank you.

I have created a separate post for the clamp files. I seem to have misplaced some of them when I re-installed Windows but will upload more clamp files as I make them.

Free Vectric clamp files

nice tables and, ya’ll sure have some nice playgrounds to keep them in it looks like

Thanks Michael. I would also use nylon bolts and wingnuts. I have not broken a bit on a clamp since I started using nylon.

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In consideration of noise, which route would you go?
Use a water cooled spindle instead of a router?
Build an enclosure to reduce the noise?

I think most of the noise will come from the dust collection and the actual cutting of the wood rather than the router/spindle. Although I’m guessing here as I’ve never used a spindle.

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Where is the pivot point located to allow it to store in the back like that? Forgive me I’m new here or is it optical illusion that it is tight against the back. Thanks

Are the legs 3 two x fours laminated together and the rails a single 2x4?

If you were asking about my table - I used hardwood instead of dimensional lumber. But dimensional lumber would work just fine - legs would be 3 2x6s and the rails 2x4s

And welcome to the forum!

I’m new to CNC but have been a hobbyist carpenter for several years . I understand the importance of having machinery square and level, I’m just not sure the best way to go about it, particularly for mounting my 48x30. My garage floor has it’s uneven spots here and there and while I can build a table out of 2x4’s just as easily as anyone else, I always seem to be off a degree in this direction and another degree in the opposite direction, which leads to anger, anger leads to fear, fear leads to the dark side. What are the best ways to ensure that I’m built square and level OR how to adjust if there is a slight tilt to the table once I have her set up? Thanks for any responses in advance.

-Tanner

Torsion box (I hope I’m correct on that spelling) built properly will remain flat and square. It also adds the opportunity for additional storage.
As far as level, there a multitude of adjustable feet for the bottom of the legs. Let your inner carpenter go wild.
All you’re really concerned about is the top surface being dead flat, level is secondary.

Wg

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