Hello everyone, received my MK2 48x30 last month, have been busy with other projects, but now ready to install a MDF spoil board with T tracks. I wanted to know how everyone is drilling mounting holes in their spoil boards. I’m new to the CNC and don’t want to spoil up my spoil board before I even get started! I assume one has to design in Vcarve and send the file to Gsender in order to execute this? I did a search of this forum, but could not find relevant information on this subject. Is there possibly a file somewhere that can get me started?
@rnsbr I drilled my spoil board slats on my drill press. There is nothing to be gained by drilling them on the Long Mill as far as I am concerned. It is important that you install them parallel to the Y travel though.
Thank you, gwilki. That makes total sense. I was just trying to use the CNC as I it would be my “job” and didn’t want to spoil by board on my first attempt.
@rnsbr Ron: There is nothing to say that you cannot use the CNC to drill them. You would just need to figure out a way to hold them down to the table top. Double sided tape perhaps. Also you want to be sure get your setup accurate so that you are not drilling into your table top, too. As I am spoiled, having a drill press, it was simply easier and quicker to use that.
I have plans of drilling holes for inserts into the table base - just to hold the spoil board, not for work holding. Anyway, in order to be able to replace the spoil board I will need to drill things on the mill so I know exactly where the inserts are and so I can drill the next spoil board in the exact same positions.
I REALLY don’t trust wood screws in MDF or particle board. They are ok for the first time you drive the screw in but IMHO screws loose an incredible amount of holding power every time you remove a screw and put it back in.
The drill press is certainly a viable option but I milled the holes and countersinks on my LongMill when I got it because I didn’t have a drill press at the time.
I was able to use the LongMill by planning everything out and installing two of the T tracks first. Then I had a way to clamp the spoil board pieces for milling.
For what it’s worth my T tracks are mounted parallel to the X axis and it hasn’t been a problem. I installed my T tracks that way to accommodate my vertical mount for doing joints on the ends of boards. It is just easier for me that way. I also don’t have to reach all the way to the back of the mill if I decide to add a clamp after I’ve already started clamping something down. The mill is in an enclosure so its a bit of a reach to the back. I think the direction of the T tracks is personal preference but they should be parallel to whichever axis you choose.
Congratulations on receiving your mill. Have fun and be safe.
I have mounted my mill on a slab mdf and let the mill drill a grid for inserts in it. Every 50mm there’s one of them buggers.
I have no single spoilboard but use dedicated spoil-jigs that fit specific projects. They don’t take much time to make, less material and less time to resurface.
At the moment I have a horizontal pine one for sign making along the x-axis, a tiling jig to make longer signs along the y-axis and a quarter slab of mdf to do irregular jobs that need more width than the 30cm the sign maker jigs can support.
I see no use for a full sized spoilboard, for I have not yet encountered that big o’ projects.
You have some great ideas there! I like all of them, do you mind if I copy them for my table? I particularly like the way you’ve incorporated the vise below. I had a couple of ideas also, but I like this one better. I too have been looking for a way to do dove tails and box joints, and I believe having a vertical option would be extremely beneficial for other things also. I also see no reason why not to mount the track along the X axis either as this makes the vertical vice setup easier to comply with.
Thanks again, have a great time carving and be safe!
Yes I used my laser for the coordinates. The lines even survived after a thin resurfacing because the burn penetrates into the MDF a bit. If you haven’t watched it yet that video about how not to ruin your spoil board is good. Since I started using Z zero at the spoil board for all through cuts my spoil board lasts a long time.
If you don’t have a laser you could carve the pattern with a V bit, paint it black and then resurface just enough to take the paint of the flat parts. I haven’t done it that way because I have a laser but it should work.
If you use your CNC to drill the holes, and need to replace any portion of the boards, you should be able to and have the holes match up. if you are using t-tracks, I would cut all of the profiles of the board and assemble onto the base board with the t-tracks, that way all of the holes are square to your machine and perfectly. Don’t forget to surface the whole spoil board top so it’s perfectly flat with your machine after everything is bolted down and don’t forget to recess the holes/screws that attach the spoil boards to the base board. This is the process I did when I installed the top onto my AltMill and worked great. I also used 3/8" pvc pipe for the stop pins and worked great also.
USE YOUR LONG MILL. It will put the holes exactly where you put them. How many holes are you drilling ? everyone you move over to the drill press or hand drill is an opportunity to make an error. Check Garrett Fromme @ IDCWOODCRAFT.COM he has a bunch of videos for the beginner on his site. Has a great one for spoil boards for the longmill. He also sells router bits. A great source for the New CNC’er. Its free, (not the router bits, lol) Check it out I think you will gain from just looking. Good Luck.
@Trex To be clear, when I suggested using a drill press, it was simply to drill the through holes and the couterbores. IMHO, it really does not matter if the holes in one strip are off by a little bit compared to another strip. These holes have nothing to do with the functionality of the spoilboard. They are simply holding the slats down to the table top.